T-Street, CA

Located in the heart of San Clemente, CA., T-Street Beach sits just south of San Clemente Pier. Access it by Trafalgar Street (now you know why they just call it T-Street) and park in numerous free spots up and down the street or there is metered parking closer to the water. T-Street is well known for being consistent year long. For reference, look straight out to the ocean from the pedestrian overpass (access over the train tracks) and you will find the main reef that comprises T-Street. On a solid South Swell, long rolling lefts will form on the outer reef and as you enter the inside section the wave will bowl on the inside on a rock and sand reef. There is a shorter right on certain swells that can be fun to ride as well. T-Street is optimal on a head high swell and best at low tide and with glassy or blowing Santa Ana conditions. It is best to catch this place early in the morning for sake of beating the westerly winds and crowds. There is really no specific paddle out point as with most California spots, it is more about timing the sets to reach the line up efficiently. In the winter you will mostly find rights that thrust you into a solid shore break section. This spot does break on most south, north and combo west swells, but it is the summer south swells that make this place special. In the summer months board Surfers are black balled from the line up which means this is a spongers heaven. Worth noting a finicky winter break just to the north called Cropley’s which can provide a fast freight train right when the north swell is hitting perfect. Just to the South is the “Beach House” which breaks less consistent than T-Street but is always less crowded. T-Street is a great break for Drop Knee riding as you can really get some fun long rides with a small shore break finish.

Wave Type: Outer reef break with inside shore pound
Swell Direction: South, West and sometimes North
Bottom Terrain: Rock and Sand
Experience: Beginner to Moderate Skill

Photo: Surfer unknown – Photo courtesy of Beneath Blue Skies/Flickr

10th Street, CA

10th Street in Laguna Beach, CA – named after the street there off of HWY 1 just outside of Dana Point, CA heading north on PCH. Also known as Thousand Steps Beach, it literally feels like hiking up and down a thousand steps to reach this surf spot. I believe I counted 227 steps on the last hike up. Parking is mainly along the HWY and look for the public access beach route between 9th and 10th street (nearer to 9th I believe). Below the steep stair case you will find a quaint cove and for the most part a quiet local beach. 10th street and its neighbor 9th street provide some fun waves for Bodyboarders and Skim Boarders alike. Best on South swells, this break is a bit finicky for shape but if you are just looking for a shallow sand sucking barrel on the beach, then you have found your home. On the right south swells, the typical waist to head-high waves will A-frame up mostly into lefts but also rights with short hollow tube rides that run right into the sands edge. Throw in occasional backwash and side wash (something the Skim Boarders love) and this will make for an interesting day as sometimes you will spend more time in the air than on the wave. Not for beginners and you do run the risk of breaking your back here. Like most California spots, it is best when it is glassy or offshore. Watch out for Skim Boarders entering the waves from the beach as they enjoy the shorebreak in a reverse fashion. If you like this spot, check out Aliso Beach just up the road - similar dynamics and only minutes away.

Wave Type: Shore Pound
Swell Direction: Mostly South
Bottom Terrain: Mostly Sand – some rock
Experience: Moderate skill to Expert (depending on size)

Photo - photo courtesy of discoverlaguna.com

Kaisers, HI

Kaisers is another fun Waikiki South shore surf spot on Oahu. Named after Henry J. Kaiser who purchased 8 acres of Waikiki beachfront property from the John Ena Estate, which is now the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Located in front of the famed Rainbow Tower and near the Ala Moana boat harbor and Hilton Lagoon in Waikiki, Kaisers can be reached by paddling out through the Hilton Pier channel used by the Atlantis tour boat. Most surfers will navigate the rocky breakwater wall that sits in front of the break – from the edge of the breakwater, most will jump into the water and then paddle through the channel markers and then to the right where Kaisers breaks. Most park their vehicles in the harbor parking lot adjacent to the HHV. Kaisers breaks both left and right but it is the right that really provides a fun, hollow wave. The right will peel along the reef near the channel ledge. Surfing the left provides longer walls and potential close outs. Farther toward the harbor will take you toward “In Betweens” and farther along the rocky breakwater and harbor entrance is “Rock Piles”. For reference, “Three’s” breaks on the Diamond Head side of the Hilton Pier Channel. Kaisers breaks on coral and operates best on South swells. It has a fast drop in and can really pitch at low tide providing a challenging surfing experience. Watch out as it can get shallow in the inside section. Always crowded, this is a great spot to catch early in the morning to beat the crowds. The Waikiki sunrises are breathtaking from the line up. Watch out for falling embers and flaming debris from Friday night fire work shows. I haven been caught in a torrent of ash and brimstone paddling in after sunset as the fireworks explode over your head. For Bodyboarding this can be a fast a rewarding wave and if it is too crowded one can paddle to the other above mentioned spots and find a less crowded peak.

Wave Type: Reef Break
Swell Direction: South
Bottom Terrain: Mostly Coral
Experience: Moderate Skill

Photo: by Annamarie Bader

Threes, HI

One of many Waikiki surf spots, "Three’s" breaks on a coral reef in front of the Fort De Russy Military Reservation and just down the beach toward Diamond Head from the Hilton Hawaiian Village. This photo was actually taken from the 9th floor of the HHVwhen the surf was about shoulder high. Actually a large span of reef, Three’s stretches from the Kaisers/Hilton Pier channel to the Sheraton Hotel. One can paddle out almost anywhere from Waikiki Beach keeping in mind the reef does get shallow in certain spots near the break. For a safe paddle when it is big I would suggest paddling out through the Hilton Pier channel and then head left toward Diamond Head. Parking anywhere in Waikiki is a hassle; if surfing Threes’s many will park at the Harbor area near the Hilton Lagoon. I believe Three’s got its name by being the third recognized or named break in Waikiki. Though others have said it was named after life guard tower number #3 that once stood on the shore there. Three’s breaks more hollow than its neighbor "Popular’s" or “Pops” as many call it. Pops sits closer to Diamond Head and "Kaisers" is the neighboring break to the west for reference. Three’s breaks both left and right but the right breaks longer and more consistent than the left. The wave forms into nice long walls of water with fast sections which tube more often than not. As with any break, tides are a major factor and Three’s will break really hollow on all South swells especially at a lower tide but can also crumble and get mushy at high tide when small and if the wind is not blowing trades. Considered one of the steeper waves that Waikiki has to offer – it also has one of the longer paddles out which keeps the kooks and tourists away – thus this is a more local surf spot. Board Surfers will dominate here, though at head high this break provides some very good Bodyboarding potential and is a great wave to drop knee too. As with any Waikiki surf spot, Three’s is usually always crowded but certainly not the populated debacle of "Queen’s" or "Canoes" farther down the beach toward Diamond Head. If you are looking for a less crowded Waikiki surf spot with a little power then Three’s is highly recommended.

Wave Type: Reef Break
Swell Direction: South
Bottom Terrain: Mostly Coral
Experience: Moderate Skill

Photo: Surfer unknown - Photo by Annamarie Bader