Friday, August 15, 2008

Poche Beach


I mention this surf spot because it is unique from many other surfing beaches in Orange County and even San Clemente. Probably less crowed than many other SC beaches, Poche is located in north San Clemente on PCH at the corner of Camino Capistrano. Metered parking can be found along Camino Capistrano or in a parking lot adjacent to the gas station on the corner. If you park in the parking lot beware as portions of it require a club or community parking sticker. Access the beach by crossing PCH or using an underground access tunnel. I like Poche because it is more local and quiet than other nearby beaches. For example, you can walk south of the small beach club house there and you will find a relatively unregulated stretch of sand. There locals will bring their dogs, coolers full of beer and even build beach fires in the sand. There are not many places like that left in Orange County! This beach kind of gives you an old school feeling of how the San Clemente beach scene was 30 plus years ago.

As for the wave, well there you sacrifice a little for the beach culture. Poche breaks best on a southwest swell. When under head high, this is primarily a beach break and can get a little inconsistent and weak. Breaking both left and right, you can find peaks from the mobile homes sitting to the south of the beach to the larger homes of Capo Beach to the north. On a larger south or southwest swell the reef will break outside off the creek that spills into the ocean. This is when Poche can impress: Expect a rolling left and right off of a deeper water reef. Poche is best at mid tide and when the wind is off shore. There is no specific paddle out point so just time the sets. You will find waves all year and even larger winter swells will break on the outer reef with hollow pealing rights at the correct tide. The beach is notorious for its urban runoff pollution but in California that is a small price to pay for a rather uncrowded beach that still possesses culture reminiscent of the 1970s. Just take a shower after.

Wave Type: Beach break with outside reef
Swell Direction: North and West , best on South
Bottom Terrain: Mostly Sand
Experience: Beginner to average ability

Photo: Bodyboarder unknown – Photo by Graeme Thickins/Fickr.com

Friday, August 8, 2008

Hanalei Bay, HI


Hanalei Bay, located on the Garden Island of Kauai, is a premier outer island North Shore Surf break in Hawaii. Located on the northern coastal reaches of Kauai, you can find Hanalei Bay by driving through the artist town of Hanalei. Look for signs that lead you to the pier and beach park area, where you should find ample beach parking. As you can see from the image taken by Timothy Moore, Hanalei Bay can hold a large winter swell. The paddle out spot is along side the pier. When it is huge it is best to paddle as far outside in the channel, along the fringe of the break, to avoid getting caught inside. It can be a rather long paddle, but in most cases it is worth the effort. Hanalei Bay can be fun when it is small; pealing over a shallow reef with several different peaks available. When it gets double over head or bigger, large winter swells will roll in from the deep water with large tumbling rights that will peak in several spots including a less frequent but safer deep water left inside, closer to the channel. Large north swells will wrap into the bay providing several tiered areas to ride so people do not have to be condensed into one primary spot. Hanalei Bay provides a steep drop, powerful bottom turn and then depending on tide and swell, the wave will mostly likely tube especially as you near the shallow reef area. Normally not a top to bottom tube, Hanalei Bay provides a mixture of deep water rollers with very hollow inside barrels. Bodyboarding is challenging here because the wave breaks fast and if you are not in the right spot at the right time Hanalei Bay will gobble up spongers. Nevertheless, if you make the drop and trim up in time staying ahead of the peak, Hanalei Bay can provide some long and very rewarding rides for Board Surfers and Bodyboarders alike. This break can get crowded and breaks best glassy or with a light offshore. The view from the water of the green Kauai mountains and waterfalls makes this place that much more special.

Wave Type: Reef Break
Swell Direction: North
Bottom Terrain: Reef
Experience: Expert

Photo: Surfer unknown – photo courtesy of Timothy Moore/Pbase.com